A weekend in Tarifa, the untouched paradise of Cádiz – like a local

Discover Tarifa, a hidden paradise near Marbella. Enjoy golden beaches, thrilling kitesurfing, fresh Melva at local chiringuitos, and unforgettable sunsets, whether in peaceful solitude or at a beachfront techno party. Here’s a perfect 3-day itinerary designed by a local to uncover the true essence of this Cádiz hot spot.

Just 1.5 hours from Marbella lies a paradise of vast golden beaches and turquoise waters. It’s not just the sea; here, you can witness the exact point where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic. The mighty ocean welcomes wind and water sports enthusiasts with open arms. The fierce Levante wind lifts people off the water and sends them soaring into the sky. Tarifa’s landscape wouldn’t be the same without kites dotting the horizon. But you don’t need to be an athlete to appreciate the scenery—here, the beach is the star, from sunrise to sunset. Sunsets are a must-see, when people gather, and the world seems to pause in reverence to this sacred moment.

Tarifa is both a town and a beach. It’s bohemian, rugged, and filled with pristine nature. And its guardian is the wind. Without it, Tarifa would be like Ibiza. Only here can you enjoy a tortilla sandwich filled with sand. If it’s not the Levante wind blowing (named so because it lifts “levanta” the sand and makes you feel like you’re in a Sahara storm), it’s the Poniente, which is cooler. How can you tell? By checking the direction of the giant rotating tuna sculpture, a symbol of Tarifa’s identity.

Tarifa is also protected by the Virgen de la Luz and offers some of the most stunning views of Africa. To discover its essence, we spoke to Irene Sambucety, the office manager at Norma Franck, a true local who has crafted a perfect itinerary to explore Tarifa like a local and uncover its true identity. Here’s the ideal plan for an unforgettable weekend.

This is likely the day you’ll arrive from elsewhere, so by the time you get to Tarifa, it’ll probably be the afternoon. Start by strolling around the town centre. Wander through the narrow streets of the old town, peeking into the beautifully decorated patios of some locals. Don’t miss a visit to Playa de La Caleta, the only beach with small pebbles and the best view of Africa. Then, stop for a beer at El Ombligo. This bar is a Tarifa institution, founded by Juan Luis Muñoz, nicknamed “the Wise Man of Tarifa,” a beloved local who was once a friar before becoming a cook. After his passing, his family carried on his legacy, and the bar remained packed with locals. Tapas are the way to go here, so start with a round at Bar Anca Curro, where you stand to enjoy excellent ham and Cádiz wine (Finca Moncloa is a favourite). Finish off with a cocktail at Hotel Misiana, located on the main street, Calle de la Luz, with a lively bar scene. When it’s time to rest, the town centre is full of riads with hammams, a nod to Tarifa’s Moorish heritage. Irene’s favourite is The Riad.

Start the day with a must-have breakfast. One option is Café 10 in the town centre. Before heading to the beach, make two essential stops. First, visit the Mercado de Abastos, a local market (closed on Sundays) where you’ll find fresh fish, grab a beer, and soak in the local atmosphere. Then, visit the Melva factory shop called Conservera de Tarifa, where you can buy preserves and learn about this local delicacy.

Alternatively, grab the car and head towards the beaches, stopping for breakfast along the way. Two great options are Surla (for toast with excellent jamón) at Playa de Los Lances or Power House (for fresh juices and pancakes). Among the beaches, Bolonia is a must-visit for first-timers. Not only is it expansive, but it also has two main attractions: the Roman ruins, with stunning sea views, and the Roman Theatre, which occasionally hosts performances in this coastal setting. For lunch, head to Chiringuito Las Rejas for fried fish, boquerones, and red mullet paired with a glass of La Gitana, a manzanilla wine from Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

In the afternoon, you can explore the dunes and try sandboarding or take a dip in the natural pools, where you can apply mud to your skin and leave feeling refreshed by sunset. The walk to the pools takes about 30 minutes each way. After sunset, return to town for dinner at La Taberna del Melli, a traditional restaurant where you can enjoy local wines, Payoyo cheese, and excellent anchovies. If you fancy something other than fish, try Atxa for Retinto beef, a native breed from the southwest of the Iberian Peninsula. End the night with a beer at Almedina, which sometimes hosts flamenco performances, just off Plaza de la Ranita.

For your farewell breakfast, head to Hotel Hurricane, set on a small beach cove. Just being there is an experience in itself. After breakfast, lace up your sneakers for a hike along the Ruta del Buda, a trail in the Parque Natural del Estrecho that runs through the Sierra de Enmedio. This scenic route offers two options: an 8 km out-and-back trail or a 9.5 km circular loop, both offering breathtaking views of Africa, Playa de Los Lances, Valdevaqueros, and Tarifa, even reaching as far as the Isla de las Palomas.

After your hike, you’ve earned a treat. Visit La Tarifeña, a historic bakery specialising in Andalusian and Moorish pastries. One standout is the Tranvía, a multi-layered pastry filled with chocolate, puff pastry, and custard. A great plan is to grab some for the road and head to Playa de Valdevaqueros for some dune-sliding fun or lunch at Chiringuito Tangana or BiBo, an outpost of Marbella’s classic restaurant run by chef Dani García. If you’re up for a kitesurfing lesson, head to Playa de Los Lances, ideal for beginners. Afterward, reward yourself at Ostería del Sole, a 100% artisanal Italian restaurant right on the beach.

For a perfect end to the weekend, head to Waves, a Thai-inspired beach bar where you can watch the sunset, enjoy a techno party, and perhaps savour a Retinto burger.

This is the perfect 3-day getaway, and you’ll definitely need a car to explore. But if you have extra time, why not take the fast ferry across to Morocco in just 30 minutes and lose yourself in the souks for a completely different African adventure?